After leaving my job to travel around South America last year, one place was so vibrant and magical that it called me back three times in the same number of months.

It wasn’t the sights of Machu Picchu or the carnivals in Brazil, but somewhere you wouldn’t have thought to visit twenty years ago: Medellin in Colombia. 

Transformed after years of turbulence in the 1980s and 1990s, this city is nothing like it once was, and Medellin is casting its spell on tourists worldwide – last year, Antioquia, where Medellin resides, was one of the country’s most visited region, second only to the capital. 

Foreign tourist visits to Colombia grew by a staggering 173.6 percent from 2021 to 2022, and it grew again last year by 24.3 percent to a record 5.87 million, according to the Ministry of Commerce, Industry, and Tourism.

Marcela Molano, who was born in Colombia, believes improved security combined with the country’s natural wonders and biodiversity make it a “paradise” for tourists and have ” blossomed into a must-visit tourist destination.”

Here’s everywhere you must visit, so you can experience the magic too. 

First up, the vibrant and upscale neighbourhood of El Poblado is your best base, and for good reason.

Famed for its buzzing bar and restaurant scene, you can feel the energy pulsating through the streets and you cannot leave without sampling the nightlife or learning the salsa here.

You can choose between luxurious hotels, buzzing hostels, or sleek Airbnbs. One of the most popular places for backpackers is Viajero, which has individual sleeping pods and a rooftop bar. 

You’ll find traditional arepas and eggs for breakfast on almost every street, interspersed with remote working cafes and popular brunch spots like Hia Miá and prices are incredibly affordable compared to Europe.

It’s also well connected by the metro system – which locals are very proud of as it was Colombia’s first – so it’s worth noting that you should avoid eating while onboard. 

After you’ve sorted the hotel, you must look into doing a Comuna 13 street art tour. Once one of the worst hit areas by violence in the 1980s and 1990s, Comuna 13 has transformed into one of the city’s most visited spots.  

Pastel-coloured houses climb haphazardly up a stunning hillside, and you hear street artists perform music at every turn – you’ll immediately understand why this place has been the background of many music videos. 

You can’t come to Medellin without taking a visit to the Jardín Botánico de Medellín (Medellín Botanical Garden), where iguanas roam free alongside exotic animals and plants.

Culture vultures should do a city walking tour – avoid any with Pablo Escobar in the marketing spiel, but opt for one that will tell you the rich history of the city’s past, including tips on where to go and where not to go. I went with Real City Tours, which were fantastic.

You’ll likely pass through Plaza Botero to admire Fernando Botero’s oversized sculptures, which sit proudly in front of the Museo de Antioquia, which displays more of his work.

For those interested in learning more about Colombia’s turbulent past, head to Casa de la Memoria to reflect on and understand what happened in the 1980s and 1990s. Knowing Spanish is a plus if you visit here.

If you’re after stunning views, take the cable car to Parque Arví, a sprawling nature reserve where you can hike, picnic, or simply enjoy the scenery.

Locals also recommend Pueblito Paisa, a mock village situated on top of one of the city’s highest peaks. This location offers breathtaking panoramic views, best enjoyed at sunset.

For those looking to mix with the residents, you should head to La Sabaneta street food market in the evening to sample delicious traditional food.

You must try obleas, two gigantic wafers with a sweet filling inside. If you want to go traditional, try it with dulce de leche, called arequipe in Colombia.  

Other local delicacies include arepas and empanadas. If you have a huge appetite, try the region’s famous dish, ‘la bandeja paisa,’ which comes from the nickname ‘paisa’ given to the warm and friendly people of the Antioquia region.

The hearty dish contains enough food for a week, including rice, red or black beans, grilled meat, pork belly, avocado, arepas, a fried egg, and plantain. 

American citizen Dre Huggins, who purchased a second home in Medellin, also fell in love with the area: “Medellin is a magical city experiencing growth like no other.” 

If you’re looking for a place rich in history and culture where salsa music pulses through the city, played by friendly locals who couldn’t be any more helpful if they tried, add Medellin to your bucket list.

The best time to visit is during dry season, which typically runs from December to March and July to August. So, there’s still time for a last-minute trip this year.